New Member, and I have a issue with recently changed head gasket

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I do plan on getting headwork done properly hopefully soon; possibly this week. I currently am waiting on my headgasket to come in since I did have a warrenty on it. I was told I should use copper spray on the headgasket this time. I would love to go to chicago and find all the good shops there, but I just recieve a whole lot of mandatory OT I got to do for the holidaes. But just curious again, do any of you guys have f22b1 harness they can laying around?

What did you put on your headgasket before? Because nothing should be put on the head gasket when it is installed.

I put on nothing but the headgasket itself. I was just told to spray coppper spray on the headgasket this time.

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I do plan on getting headwork done properly hopefully soon; possibly this week. I currently am waiting on my headgasket to come in since I did have a warrenty on it. I was told I should use copper spray on the headgasket this time. I would love to go to chicago and find all the good shops there, but I just recieve a whole lot of mandatory OT I got to do for the holidaes. But just curious again, do any of you guys have f22b1 harness they can laying around?

What did you put on your headgasket before? Because nothing should be put on the head gasket when it is installed.

I put on nothing but the headgasket itself. I was just told to spray coppper spray on the headgasket this time.

not to sound like a dick, but who told you that? ... head gaskets need to go on dry.. if you are having leaking problems then the head or your block probably has some warpage and needs to be resurfaced

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I do plan on getting headwork done properly hopefully soon; possibly this week. I currently am waiting on my headgasket to come in since I did have a warrenty on it. I was told I should use copper spray on the headgasket this time. I would love to go to chicago and find all the good shops there, but I just recieve a whole lot of mandatory OT I got to do for the holidaes. But just curious again, do any of you guys have f22b1 harness they can laying around?

What did you put on your headgasket before? Because nothing should be put on the head gasket when it is installed.

I put on nothing but the headgasket itself. I was just told to spray coppper spray on the headgasket this time.

not to sound like a dick, but who told you that? ... head gaskets need to go on dry.. if you are having leaking problems then the head or your block probably has some warpage and needs to be resurfaced

Yeah its okay, I was thinking same thing you said? Yeah someone told me that I can probably resurface the head as many times as I want, but I should take my block in and see if it needs to be resurface.

bbsquad11 wrote:

Yeah someone told me that I can probably resurface the head as many times as I want

wow hell no.. everything has a tolerance. you take too much material off the head and your pistons will slap the combustion chamber .. and that will only last a few seconds before a few rods are bent and your engine seizes up...

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

Yeah someone told me that I can probably resurface the head as many times as I want

wow hell no.. everything has a tolerance. you take too much material off the head and your pistons will slap the combustion chamber .. and that will only last a few seconds before a few rods are bent and your engine seizes up...

by the looks of everything; looks like I have alot to do.

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

Yeah someone told me that I can probably resurface the head as many times as I want

wow hell no.. everything has a tolerance. you take too much material off the head and your pistons will slap the combustion chamber .. and that will only last a few seconds before a few rods are bent and your engine seizes up...

by the looks of everything; looks like I have alot to do.

better off finding a new head...

xjoshx wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

Yeah someone told me that I can probably resurface the head as many times as I want

wow hell no.. everything has a tolerance. you take too much material off the head and your pistons will slap the combustion chamber .. and that will only last a few seconds before a few rods are bent and your engine seizes up...

by the looks of everything; looks like I have alot to do.

better off finding a new head...

Yeah most likely I will. Is there any kind of way I can figure out if my block is damage at all.. I know i should
always check the cyliner walls, but what else?

I thought about something and now its kind of in my mind.... could my engine possibly be having a blow-by affect on it..
i read some symptons and it seems like what i could be facing. Maybe its not my headgasket, maybe its rings that need to be
replace.....? dunno, maybe im just thinking to hard.

bbsquad11 wrote:

I thought about something and now its kind of in my mind.... could my engine possibly be having a blow-by affect on it..
i read some symptons and it seems like what i could be facing. Maybe its not my headgasket, maybe its rings that need to be
replace.....? dunno, maybe im just thinking to hard.

You diagnose that problem by doing a compression test and cylinder leak down test while the head is together on the block..

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I thought about something and now its kind of in my mind.... could my engine possibly be having a blow-by affect on it..
i read some symptons and it seems like what i could be facing. Maybe its not my headgasket, maybe its rings that need to be
replace.....? dunno, maybe im just thinking to hard.

You diagnose that problem by doing a compression test and cylinder leak down test while the head is together on the block..

What tool do you use for a compression test. and where?>

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I thought about something and now its kind of in my mind.... could my engine possibly be having a blow-by affect on it..
i read some symptons and it seems like what i could be facing. Maybe its not my headgasket, maybe its rings that need to be
replace.....? dunno, maybe im just thinking to hard.

You diagnose that problem by doing a compression test and cylinder leak down test while the head is together on the block..

What tool do you use for a compression test. and where?>

Its called a compression tester and a cylinder leak down tester......lol.. One is a pressure gauge, and the other one applies pressure to the cylinder.. If you have no idea how to do those which it sounds like you dont.. Dont do it.. get it done by a GOOD mechanic.. its easy to get hurt or damage something if you dont do those tests right



BTW.. You need to make an intro for yourself in the Introductions section..

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

SiRWannabe wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

I thought about something and now its kind of in my mind.... could my engine possibly be having a blow-by affect on it..
i read some symptons and it seems like what i could be facing. Maybe its not my headgasket, maybe its rings that need to be
replace.....? dunno, maybe im just thinking to hard.

You diagnose that problem by doing a compression test and cylinder leak down test while the head is together on the block..

What tool do you use for a compression test. and where?>

Its called a compression tester and a cylinder leak down tester......lol.. One is a pressure gauge, and the other one applies pressure to the cylinder.. If you have no idea how to do those which it sounds like you dont.. Dont do it.. get it done by a GOOD mechanic.. its easy to get hurt or damage something if you dont do those tests right



BTW.. You need to make an intro for yourself in the Introductions section..

yeah i will, sorry. but I have a buddy who knows how to do that. so I'll ask him for a hand or two.

or as i stated, it could be something very plain and simple... im just saying this because the issue i had on hs. everyone ran me around in circles had my head spinning thinking my hg was bad, well guess what. i tore everything down. and it turned out it wasnt my hg, it was a thermometer and a bad oil sending unit...

thats why i am telling you not to get your mind set on internal damages.

xjoshx wrote:

or as i stated, it could be something very plain and simple... im just saying this because the issue i had on hs. everyone ran me around in circles had my head spinning thinking my hg was bad, well guess what. i tore everything down. and it turned out it wasnt my hg, it was a thermometer and a bad oil sending unit...

thats why i am telling you not to get your mind set on internal damages.

okay sounds good. thanks for all the help. I will be waiting for my headgasket to come in and hopefuly get some headwork done as well. i'll keep this posted.

i didnt suggest to do head i only suggested a place IF he needed the head rebuilt and/or refinished, sand blasted

ik, chris just came out leading this guy into thinking he had internal problems....

it could be all kinds of things, bad rings, bad injectors, bad fuel pump, clogged lines. bad o2 sensors. etc etc etc.

just to through it out there.. can bad o2 sensor really lead to the car bogging like this? because the pins came off my plug for the o2 sensor and i just random put them back in...?

bbsquad11 wrote:

just to through it out there.. can bad o2 sensor really lead to the car bogging like this? because the pins came off my plug for the o2 sensor and i just random put them back in...?

the pins? u would have a cel if your o2 sensor was unplugged... sometimes u can have an old, or defective o2 sensor and it wont throw a cel right away.... or only throw them when u drive for a while at highway speeds... it can cause it to run too rich or too lean. too rich can lead to major problems... not sure if it will feel liek bogging... and too lean will have very noticable power loss. i ran my car 1 week with a bad o2 sensor running too lean. and it ran like shit. i could floor it, and i was driving granny speed lol

also... if you didnt know, during winter months gas stations use a winter blend of gasoline that is less combustable.... not to mention a cold temp outside all can affect the power of your vehicle.

xjoshx wrote:

bbsquad11 wrote:

just to through it out there.. can bad o2 sensor really lead to the car bogging like this? because the pins came off my plug for the o2 sensor and i just random put them back in...?

the pins? u would have a cel if your o2 sensor was unplugged... sometimes u can have an old, or defective o2 sensor and it wont throw a cel right away.... or only throw them when u drive for a while at highway speeds... it can cause it to run too rich or too lean. too rich can lead to major problems... not sure if it will feel liek bogging... and too lean will have very noticable power loss. i ran my car 1 week with a bad o2 sensor running too lean. and it ran like shit. i could floor it, and i was driving granny speed lol

you last statement, thats what im feeling as well, i can floor it but im getting nowhere? can you describe what running rich and lean means//?

basically from my understanding your o2 sensor detects how much oxygen is in your exhaust, and has a set "gasoline to air ratio".

"It turns out that there is a particular ratio of air and gasoline that is "perfect," and that ratio is 14.7:1 (different fuels have different perfect ratios -- the ratio depends on the amount of hydrogen and carbon found in a given amount of fuel). If there is less air than this perfect ratio, then there will be fuel left over after combustion. This is called a rich mixture. Rich mixtures are bad because the unburned fuel creates pollution. If there is more air than this perfect ratio, then there is excess oxygen. This is called a lean mixture. A lean mixture tends to produce more nitrogen-oxide pollutants, and, in some cases, it can cause poor performance and even engine damage."

if you have a bad o2 sensor, it can throw your vehicle off... the o2 sensor will help your car determine how much gasoline:air your engine needs, the bad o2 sensor can be detecting that your engine needs less gas, and more air. which can cause it to run lean.... or with too little gas, even if thats not the case.

simply put, the o2 sensor tells your car how much gas to burn. if your o2 sensor is bad, and thinks your car is burning too much gas, it will tell it to burn less, causing your engine to run poorly..




and as i said before. check your timing.... make sure your tdc lines up perfect.... because even a couple notches off will have a very very very noticable power difference, your car will have the power of a moped

xjoshx wrote:

basically from my understanding your o2 sensor detects how much oxygen is in your exhaust, and has a set "gasoline to air ratio".

"It turns out that there is a particular ratio of air and gasoline that is "perfect," and that ratio is 14.7:1 (different fuels have different perfect ratios -- the ratio depends on the amount of hydrogen and carbon found in a given amount of fuel). If there is less air than this perfect ratio, then there will be fuel left over after combustion. This is called a rich mixture. Rich mixtures are bad because the unburned fuel creates pollution. If there is more air than this perfect ratio, then there is excess oxygen. This is called a lean mixture. A lean mixture tends to produce more nitrogen-oxide pollutants, and, in some cases, it can cause poor performance and even engine damage."

if you have a bad o2 sensor, it can throw your vehicle off... the o2 sensor will help your car determine how much gasoline:air your engine needs, the bad o2 sensor can be detecting that your engine needs less gas, and more air. which can cause it to run lean.... or with too little gas, even if thats not the case.

simply put, the o2 sensor tells your car how much gas to burn. if your o2 sensor is bad, and thinks your car is burning too much gas, it will tell it to burn less, causing your engine to run poorly..




and as i said before. check your timing.... make sure your tdc lines up perfect.... because even a couple notches off will have a very very very noticable power difference, your car will have the power of a moped

alrighty, thanks. I will do. To bad its getting cold out in the mid-west weather....

you can take your car to autozone and they will scan your ecu for free for codes.... as i stated before, when i had catastrophic head damage, my check engine light instantly came on... right now, i place my bet on your tdc being off a tooth, or a failure in your fuel system.

if you have problems checking tdc, or dont know how. just line up the crankshaft to the marks on the cover, snap a picture, then snap a picture on the back side of the cam gear.... the should literally line up perfectly every time they rotate.

xjoshx wrote:

you can take your car to autozone and they will scan your ecu for free for codes.... as i stated before, when i had catastrophic head damage, my check engine light instantly came on... right now, i place my bet on your tdc being off a tooth, or a failure in your fuel system.

I'll check my tdc and fuel system. Last time i brought the car to autozone, my engine check light was on for vtec because it wasn't wired. but yeah I'll check everything. like I said before i remember pulling off my harness when doing the head forgetting to unplug 02 sensor and the pins came out, when i replugged it i just stuck them in randomly. my gas was low so i gas up 1/4 drove and it went to e within minutes of driving....

i have my o2 sensor bypassed and still runs good

is your vtec still unhooked? and what Ecu are you running?